Sauvignon Gris has been mostly unknown in South Africa, with only 0,12 ha under vineyard registered with SAWIS by 2020. That’s changing as two different producers have brought in the first commercial harvests of this enigmatic white grape this year.
David Nieuwoudt of Cederberg Wines first encountered Sauvignon Gris on a visit to Chile thirteen years ago. There, a tasting at top Sauvignon Blanc producer Casa Marin made such an impression that he couldn’t get it out of his mind.
It was a confluence of interests that finally brought Sauvignon Gris to the Cederberg. David’s decade-long collaboration with Chilean producer Julio Bouchan on Longaví created the opportunity to bring vines into the country. “The history of Sauvignon Gris in Chile goes back to Julio’s great-grandfather, who introduced the varietal to his country in 1904,” says David. The original block was maintained by family of the Bouchons at Casa Silva.
Vititec cleaned the plant material and placed it under quarantine. In 2019, David planted the first vines at Sandpoort in the Cederberg – right next to their best blocks of Sauvignon Blanc – on sandstone and koffieklip.
Viticulture
Sauvignon Gris is a mutation of Sauvignon Blanc found mostly in France and Chile, which exhibits grey or pink berries. “It’s a little more hardened and tolerant of high temperatures than Sauvignon Blanc,” says David.
“The pink colouration almost makes it seem like the grapes are sunburnt if you’re used to Sauvignon Blanc, but they shouldn’t be harvested too green. You pick them closer to optimum ripeness, when the grapes acquire an almost muscat-like flavour. The skin is tougher and thicker, so I think it can become phenolic quickly. I prefer whole-bunch press for a cleaner juice.”
“Otherwise, it’s a lot like Sauvignon Blanc,” David says. “We just make it in a more oxidative style rather than reductive to get a natural textures wine with a beautiful palate weight.”
Winemaking
What makes Sauvignon Gris so special? “While Sauvignon Blanc is all about the aroma profile, especially in South Africa, what makes Sauvignon Gris so amazing is its texture or ‘palate weight’. The wines are easy-drinking, softer and much fatter than Sauvignon Blanc. Rather than the aromatics, it’s about mouthfeel and texture, which makes for very food-friendly wines.”
David’s partnership with Julio made Sauvignon Gris a natural candidate for the Longaví collection, marketed mainly in North and South America, and now also in South Africa, but he also sees the variety as an extension of his love for Sauvignon Blanc. “To remain a leader in the Sauvignon Blanc scene, you have to keep innovating.”
Cederberg winemaker Jean Nel managed a small barrel from the first bunches last year, but this year will see the first certified Sauvignon Gris being bottled in South Africa. “It will always be a niche product of interest mostly to private consumers and taken up mainly in the on-trade.”
Although David plans to add more vines, the wine will remain a rare pleasure. “We want to have about 2.5 to 3 ha,” he says.